The Live-Style Challenge: Our Favourite Restaurants in London

We set ourselves what sounded like an easy challenge: list our favourite restaurants in London. Within minutes the argument began. The city has so many celebrated dining rooms that it seemed almost perverse that our shortlist kept returning to the modest neighbourhood places of south-west London, the ones where the staff remember your order and the candles are always lit.

So this is not a list of the capital's most famous tables. It is a love letter to the kind of restaurant you can walk to, the kind that makes a neighbourhood feel like home.

What makes a favourite restaurant in London?

When we compared notes, the same qualities came up again and again, and almost none of them had to do with awards or reviews:

• Warmth. A greeting that feels genuine and a room that invites you to linger.
• Consistency. Food that is as good on a wet Tuesday as on a busy Saturday.
• Atmosphere. Low light, good music at the right volume, and tables that are not jammed together.
• Sharing. Dishes meant for the middle of the table, which turn dinner into a conversation.
• Character. An interior with a point of view, whether that is reclaimed timber, mismatched chairs or a single bold colour.

The best neighbourhood restaurant is the one you would happily go to on your own, and the first one you think of when friends visit.

Neighbourhood favourites in south-west London

South-west London has a particular talent for this sort of place. Earlsfield, Wandsworth, Tooting, Balham and their neighbours are full of independent cafés, bistros and wine bars that rarely make the glossy lists but quietly fill up every evening with locals.

Wandering along Garratt Lane or the high streets around the commons, you will find everything from cosy brunch spots to small-plates bars and family-run kitchens. Our advice is to explore on foot, peer through windows, and follow the places where the tables are full of regulars rather than tourists.

A note on Mel's in Earlsfield

Mel's in Earlsfield was one of the names on our original list back in 2013. Restaurants come and go, and we have not been able to confirm that it is still trading today, so please check before you make the trip. Its place on our list stands as a reminder that local favourites are precious, and worth supporting while they are with us. If a small local spot you love has closed, the best tribute is to seek out the next independent opening nearby and give it a try.

Designing a room people love to eat in

Being interiors obsessives, we cannot help noticing how much a restaurant's design shapes our affection for it. The candlelit table in our photo says a lot: soft light, a few good glasses, a generous dish to share. None of it is expensive, but all of it is considered.

Those same lessons work at home. Dim the overheads and use lamps and candles. Serve food family-style. Mix your glassware. If you want to go further, our feature on open shelving in kitchens shows how to keep favourite pieces on display, and our post on Swedish style has ideas for creating a warm, relaxed mood.

Exploring further afield

Of course, our challenge did not stop at the south-west. Once we started, we could not resist a few trips east, which you can read about in our guide to two east London hotspots. But for a midweek supper that feels like a hug, we still think the neighbourhood place is hard to beat.

Your turn

The beauty of a challenge like this is that everyone's answer is different. Your favourite restaurant might be a curry house you have visited for twenty years, a tiny Italian with six tables, or a wine bar where the owner always saves you a seat. Whatever it is, go this week, order the dish you love, and tell them you appreciate them. Neighbourhood restaurants thrive on loyalty, and the city is richer for every one of them.

Questions readers ask

What makes a great neighbourhood restaurant in London?

Warm service, consistent cooking, a relaxed atmosphere, sharing dishes and an interior with real character matter more than awards or reviews.

Is Mel's in Earlsfield still open?

Mel's in Earlsfield was on our original 2013 list, but we have not been able to confirm it is still trading, so check before you visit.

Which areas of south-west London are good for local restaurants?

Earlsfield, Wandsworth, Tooting, Balham and neighbouring areas all have plenty of independent cafés, bistros and wine bars popular with locals.